Rice Wars: India and Pakistan’s battle for the Basmati GI tag in Europe

At stake is a multi-billion dollar export market and the very identity of this rice strain. As the tensions escalate, both nations are leaving no stone unturned in their quest to secure the GI tag, which would grant them exclusive rights to market their Basmati rice in the lucrative European Union (EU) market.

Deep in the heart of the Indo-Gangetic plains, a centuries-old battle is raging over one of the world’s most prized rice varieties – the aromatic and delectable Basmati. This time, however, the battleground has shifted from the lush paddy fields to the corridors of power in Brussels, as India and Pakistan vie for the coveted Geographical Indication (GI) tag from the European Commission (EC) for their respective Basmati rice varieties.

At stake is a multi-billion dollar export market and the very identity of this rice strain. As the tensions escalate, both nations are leaving no stone unturned in their quest to secure the GI tag, which would grant them exclusive rights to market their Basmati rice in the lucrative European Union (EU) market.

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The Roots of the Conflict

The conflict over Basmati rice has its roots in the shared history and geography of the two nations. Basmati, derived from the Sanskrit word “vasmati” meaning “fragrant,” has been cultivated in the fertile plains of the Indian subcontinent for centuries. Both India and Pakistan lay claim to their origins, with each nation boasting its unique varieties and cultivation techniques.

India, with its vast swaths of Basmati-growing regions spanning states like Jammu and Kashmir, Himachal Pradesh, Punjab, Haryana, Delhi, Uttarakhand, and western Uttar Pradesh, submitted its GI registration application to the EC on July 20, 2018. Pakistan, on the other hand, followed suit on August 24, 2023, seeking to broaden the geographical scope of its Basmati GI from 14 to 48 districts.

The Strategic Offensive

Recognizing the high stakes involved, the Indian government has launched a strategic offensive to counter Pakistan’s ambitious bid. The Union Commerce Ministry, in consultation with key stakeholders like the Basmati Export Development Foundation, the Agricultural and Processed Food Products Export Development Authority (APEDA), the Indian Agricultural Research Institute (IARI), and associations of rice exporters, is finalizing a comprehensive report to refute Pakistan’s claims.

“In a meeting convened by Commerce Secretary Sunil Barthwal in the first week of April, all stakeholders were directed to defend the case against Pakistan in a manner that sets a precedent for similar situations,” revealed a high-ranking official privy to the discussions.

India’s response, expected to be submitted to the EC by the fourth week of May, will challenge Pakistan’s sudden expansion of Basmati-growing districts without a solid scientific basis. According to Vijay Setia, former president of the All India Rice Exporters Association, “Pakistan’s case lacks a solid foundation and is unlikely to be upheld in the EC. Pakistan had initially identified 14 districts as Basmati rice-producing districts, but suddenly increased this number to 48 without providing any scientific base.”

The Basmati Bounty

The stakes are high for both nations, as Basmati rice exports represent a significant slice of their agricultural trade. In the fiscal year 2022-23, India’s Basmati trade soared to a staggering $4.8 billion, with volumes reaching 4.6 million metric tons, cementing its position as the world’s top exporter of this premium variety.

Moreover, India’s Basmati exports to the EU have consistently risen over the past three years, reaching 152,857 metric tons valued at $167 million in the fiscal year 2023. Between April 2023 and January 2024 alone, India exported 130,122 metric tons of Basmati worth $168 million to the EU, a testament to the robust demand and superior quality of Indian Basmati in European markets.

Pakistan’s Perspective

While Pakistan’s case has drawn criticism from Indian quarters, Islamabad remains undeterred. Hamid Malik, a Lahore-based rice commodity specialist and founding partner of the Agri Policy Research Institute, Islamabad, argues that Pakistan has historically supported India’s fight for GI protection for Basmati, paving the way for the recognition of PUSA 1 as a Basmati variety.

“Pakistan will defend its case, including the 48 Basmati-growing districts, citing a verdict of the Delhi High Court pronounced on April 25, 2019, regarding the restriction of Basmati cultivation in the Indo-Gangetic Plains,” Malik said.

The European Commission’s Balancing Act

Caught in the crossfire of this high-stakes battle, the European Commission finds itself in a delicate position. An EC official acknowledged that both India and Pakistan are seeking European GI protection for Basmati rice, and the commission will strive for a “balanced solution” that represents a win for all parties while complying with existing rules.

“If either party opposes, the EU will ensure it is examined in line with standing procedures, and ensure the rights of all parties,” the official stated, underscoring the commission’s commitment to fairness and due process.

As the Rice Wars rage on, the world watches with bated breath, eager to see which nation will emerge victorious in this centuries-old battle for the crown jewel of rice varieties. Whichever way the verdict swings, one thing is certain: the rich legacy and cherished flavour of Basmati rice will continue to captivate palates across the globe, a testament to the enduring culinary heritage of the Indian subcontinent.